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2744 (1529) North Mozart Street 2744 (1529) North Mozart Street is a 2-story brick dwelling with a stone front and frame...
07/16/2025

2744 (1529) North Mozart Street

2744 (1529) North Mozart Street is a 2-story brick dwelling with a stone front and frame porches. One of Chicago’s iconic greystones, its front facade is fashioned from Bedford limestone mined in Indiana, smooth stones on the upper level and rusticated on the bottom.

The building permit was registered on August 5, 1897 by architect Edward H. Nordlie and mason Charles W. Labinsky. The permit indicates their plan for a 2-story brick flat at the cost of $2,200. Labinsky’s name on the permit is miswritten as “Lovinsky” and in the building permit log it is miswritten as “Loviensky.” The Chicago Masons’ and Builders’ Association directory from this period allows us to identify those as typos.

Edward Nordlie was a native Chicagoan and son of Norwegian immigrants. He was an architect, a contractor, and eventually Chief Examiner of Plans for Chicago’s Department of Buildings. Charles W. Labinsky was a native Chicagoan and son of German immigrants. He worked as a masonry contractor, eventually going on to form the Abbey Brick Company. At the time the house was built, Nordlie and Labinsky were working together under the name “Labinsky & Nordlie,” masonry contractors.

The year prior to the build date, Labinsky made the papers after engaging in a bar fight at “Matt Brown’s salon at Lincoln and Graceland” when another patron’s horse pulled their buggy up against his and blocked him in. Labinsky and the horse’s owner, Frederick Kohlmeyer, had words and exchanged blows and Frederick fell backward striking his head on a street car track. Though he was booked for “assault with attempt to murder,” the article notes that he was known in Lakeview as a “hard-working young man of peaceful disposition who had accumulated a snug sum by strict attention to business.” Luckily, from what I can tell, Kohlmeyer lived.

Despite Nordlie and Labinsky’s permit designation of a “flats” dwelling, as early as 1910 this building was listed for sale as a “stone front house…8 room modern residence.” Again in 1918, the building was listed for rent as a “2-story brick residence.” And from that time forward every sale or rental listing lists the property as a single family dwelling. Additionally, census data consistently records single families residing in the house, and only occasionally with borders.

With its 1897 build date, we just miss the earliest Sanborn map of the area, published in 1896. In that unrevised 1896 map sheet, there is only one brick residence with stone front, located at 2726 (1511) Mozart St. (Clinton Ave) (9 lots north of Schubert (Conneaut)) on the sheet. There are no other greystones, only frame and brick structures. So certainly, 2744 is one of the first greystones to be built in the immediate area.

Luckily, the Chicago History Museum has a copy of the 1896 Sanborn map with corrections through July 1920, so we get an earlier glimpse of this house than is printed in the 1921 map! The revised 1896 map shows 2744 (1529) as a two-story plus basement dwelling with brick construction and a stone front. The main roof is indicated to be composition. There is a one-story frame back porch with a shingle roof, but interestingly there is no porch on the front of the building. There is also no out-building at the back of the lot.

By the 1921 edit, the house has a one-story frame front porch with a slate or metal roof added. The back porch now has a composition roof. Interestingly, there is a third frame structure indicated on the south side of the building in front of the side bay window. To the back of the lot there is a one-story frame shed with a shingle roof. At some point between then and 1950 the shed was revised to a one-story frame garage with composition roof.

Notably, the Sanborn map shows the building originally had a stone or metal cornice (versus frame, indicated by a solid line around the front of the building). Hints as to what the original cornice may have looked like can be found in the two merlons that still exist on the north and south ends of the roof, which bring to mind a crenellated roofline. There is also some stone ornamentation surviving above the north side second story window on the front facade that may hold clues to the architectural style once exhibited. 2744 is an early greystone and there is no reason not to think that it would have originally had an ornamental stone cornice.

The first family to live in here were the Roeders, who built the house, according to the historical tract sheet. The house makes its first census appearance in 1900 with the Roeder family in residence. In 1900, Henry Roeder, a 51-year-old station engineer was listed as head of household. Also living in the house was Henry’s 51-year-old wife Annie. At the time of the census they had been married for 29 years. Both emigrated from Germany in 1865. The census indicates they had one child, living, but not living with them. In December of 1899, Henry transferred ownership of the house to Anna’s name. In January of 1900, he petitioned for bankruptcy, listing no assets. In 1901, Henry petitioned the Chicago Civil Service commission to be transferred to work at the crib (offshore structures that channeled lake water into underground tunnels for drinking), a position that had “been refused by many engineers.” A new crib, named for Mayor Carter H. Harrison had just been completed in 1900, so perhaps this is where Henry Roeder was asking to be stationed.

By 1903, 2744 was home to the McGaffey family. Judging by the historic tract sheet, the McGaffey’s were renting from the Roeders. Ernest McGaffey was an attorney, a poet, and private secretary to Mayor Carter H. Harrison. McGaffey appears to have experienced his heyday while living in in this home. Although considered a minor poet today, at the time McGaffey was well-known and well-published nationally. He was even referred to as the “poet laureate of Chicago.” McGaffey published his celebrated book “Sonnets to a Wife” in 1901. The book was dedicated to his wife Cecilia Rafalsky and was highly praised in newspapers across the country.

McGaffey’s past, however, was both less public and less rose colored. In 1884, before Cecilia, McGaffey met Lizzie Gordon. They were married two years later. In 1890, Ernest and Lizzie had a son, Wyatt Gordon, who passed away at just five weeks old. One year later, their daughter, Edith, died at just four months. According to a newspaper notice published by Lizzie’s lawyers in 1895, Ernest deserted her in Chicago in 1892. They were divorced in 1896.

Around that time, McGaffey shared an apartment with Edgar Lee Masters (also an attorney and poet), who would go on to write the Spoon River Anthology. Also sharing the apartment was attorney Kickham Scanlon. All three lawyers practiced law in Clarence Darrow’s firm (considered one of the greatest lawyers of the 20th century, gaining fame for the Leopold and Loeb murder trial and the Scopes "monkey" trial). In 1898, McGaffey set his attentions on an old childhood neighbor of his, Cecilia Rafalsky. Rumors of their rumored elopement made front page news.

The McGaffey's first child together was born in the house on November 6, 1903, just two months before Ernest was called upon to send a telegram to Mayor Harrison harkening him back to the city from a hunting trip to attend to the aftermath of the Iroquois Theater fire disaster.

In February of 1904, newspapers reported that “Ernest McGaffey Has Pneumonia” and was “ill at his home, 1529 Mozart.” His physician Dr. Burroughs was summoned to treat him.

Theodore Roosevelt admired McGaffey’s work and in 1902 “asked him to dine with him. The invitation of course was accepted.” A correspondence between the two began and many wonderful letters from Roosevelt to Ernest can be found in the digital library of Dickinson State University’s Theodore Roosevelt Center.

There is also a wonderful handwritten artifact from Ernest McGaffey in the California State Library Biographical Files. On the index card bearing his name, he writes his own biographical note: “Lawyer, appointed on Board of Local Inspectors by Mayor Carter Harrison of Chicago for 2 year term from 1901 to 1903. From 1903 to 1905 was private secretary to Mayor Harrison to retiring in 1905, am active Democrat, Do not belong to any learned societies and do not know nor have ever met any learned people.” On the line “Where educated,” McGaffey writes, “College of ‘Hard knocks,’ 2 years in public school.”

By 1909 the McGaffeys had ended up in Portland, where the Oregon Daily Journal printed a story about their involvement in efforts against the White Plague (tuberculosis) that included a wonderful photograph of Cecelia McGaffey and referenced their friendship with Theodore Roosevelt.

In mid-1904, Marie Mahr purchased the house. The 1910 census shows 50-year-old Marie Mahr as head of household. Mahr immigrated from Germany in 1882. In 1897 she married Ernest Mahr, and according to the census this was her second marriage. I was not able to find anything conclusive about what happened to either of her two husbands, but Marie was not indicated as widowed and Ernest was not listed as residing at the house. Marie’s two daughters, her brother, and a border were living with her at the time of the census: Katherine Lange, 24, who was working as a foods demonstrator; Louisa F. Lange, 18, who was working as a stenographer; Henry Schoening, 46, a shoe maker; and 26-year-old Florence M. Crocker who, like Katherine, was working as a foods demonstrator.

In March, April, and May 1910, 2744 was listed for sale with the note that the owner was leaving the city. The building was described as a “brick stone front house…. Sale - bargain 8 room modern residence” and later as a “7 room brick residence.”

Around 1912 until 1922, Julius Fergan bought the property, but it appears that he rented it out and did not actually live in the house himself.

The 1911 & 1912 Lakeside Annual Directories show Frank E. Falkenberg, living at 2744. Two of his sons, Charles V. and William A. are also listed in residence at the house.

At the Falkenberg’s prior residence (829 (320) N Damen (Robey)) Frank and his wife, Mary Elizabeth McNamara, were living not only with Charles and William, but with sons Frank E. Jr and Clarence T., as well as daughters Marie A. and Helen Genevieve. In the census subsequent to their move from your house, the family remains together, minus Helen who sadly passed away in 1918, so it is reasonable to assume the entire family was living at 2744 at the time that Frank, Charles, and William appear in the city directories at the address.

Frank was a pharmacist and drug store owner. Mary Elizabeth McNamara, the matriarch of the family, was a graduate of the Hershey School of Music and was the organist at both St. Malachy’s church and St. Columbkille’s church. According to the Directory and Register of Chicago’s Women’s Clubs of 1914, she was active in the Catholic Women’s League and The Women’s Club of the Allied Drug Trade. Daughter Marie worked as a music teacher and Frank Jr. and Clarence both worked as assistant traffic managers for a piano company at some point. William worked as a print designer for a construction company. Charles V. was a lawyer and was noted by the Chicago Tribune as one of Chicago’s civic leaders.

I was incredibly lucky to find photographs of both Frank and Mary Falkenberg in the public trees on Ancestry.

A 1915 classifieds listing advertises the sale of all of the “furniture of a 7 room house,” including a piano and bench, an oak phonograph and records at 2744 Mozart St, so perhaps this is when the Falkenberg’s left the home.

Information for the years between 1915 and 1920 is scant, but draft registration cards from 1917 show two single Swedish men at the address: Axel Oscar Antonson, a piano polisher for Cable Piano at 22nd and Paulina and Carl Elis Johnson, a packer at Marshall Fields & Co at Quincy and 5th. Throughout this time, Julius Fergan still owned the property.

In April 1918, 2744 was listed for rent as a two-story brick residence, with instructions to call on Fergen at 2636 Washtenaw.

The 1920 census confirms renters were eventually found. The Keefe family was in residence with 46-year-old Mary Keefe as head of house. Mary was Irish, but born in England. Her husband Daniel, a plumber, had died in 1916. Living with her at the time of the census were her five children: Ruth, a 26-year-old bookkeeper; Raymond, a 24-year-old plumber; Vera, a 20-year-old stenographer; and Warren and Richard, 16 and 15 years old respectively, who were both at school. Professional publications from 1921 and 1922 show Ray Keefe as the president of the Lutz Plumbing corporation, but by 1923 Lutz Plumbing had been dissolved.

In 1927, Frank C. Adams bought the house from Julius Fergan. The next three census reports, 1930, 1940 and the last publicly available census in 1950, show the Adams family as owners and the tract sheet confirms the Adams family did not sell the property until 1970!

Though the tract sheet shows Frank C. Adams as owner, on census sheets Frank’s widowed mother Wilhelmina was listed as head of house. The family patriarch Gustav Albin Theodor Adam, whom Wilhelmina had married in Dresden in 1890, had passed away in 1902.

Wilhelmina Adams immigrated from Germany with Gustav in 1892 on a steamship called The Stuttgart. The 1930 census shows her as 65-year-old head of house. The purchase price of 2477 is listed as $10,000. Living with her were three of her children: 36-year-old Frank, a traveling salesman for a hardware manufacturer; 27-year-old Walter, a bookkeeper for a hardware manufacturer; and 46-year-old Hulda Koch, who was widowed like her mother. The 1930 census shows they had a radio in the house.

Hulda Koch, formerly Wetzel, was Gustav’s step daughter, born eight years before Wilhelmina married him in 1890. Wilhelmina had seven other children with Gustav: Arthur Theodore who died in childhood, Ida (Bullett), Frank, Frieda (Carls), Theda, William, and Elsie (Beeny). Hulda and Ida had come with Wilhelmina and Gustav from Germany, when they were just five years old and six months old, respectively.

The 1940 census shows circumstances unchanged with Wilhelmina, by then 75, still living with three of her single adult children. Not listed on the census, but indicated as in residence via 1940 draft card records, were Wilhelmina’s daughter Ida and her husband Paul Bullett, a sign painter who owned his own business at 2445 S. Princeton.

Wilhelmina passed away in 1947, and Frank took over as head of house at 2744. In the 1950 census, Frank is 56 years old and still single. Living with Frank are Paul and Ida, Hulda, and Walter, who was by then working as an accountant for a steel foundry and was also still single. Frank passed away in 1958. Walter and Hulda both passed away in 1970.

Ownership of the house passed from Frank to Walter to Ida to Hulda and then briefly to Frieda before the property was sold in 1975 to M. B. Burka.

The property was listed for sale again in 1983 - publicized as the home of an avid antique collector.

References

Census Reports
Year: 1900; Census Place: Chicago Ward 15, Cook, Illinois; Roll: 265; Page: 10; Enumeration District: 0497

Year: 1910; Census Place: Chicago Ward 28, Cook, Illinois; Roll: T624_273; Page: 5a; Enumeration District: 1220; FHL microfilm: 1374286

Year: 1920; Census Place: Chicago Ward 28, Cook (Chicago), Illinois; Roll: T625_343; Page: 8A; Enumeration District: 1693

Year: 1930; Census Place: Chicago, Cook, Illinois; Page: 11B; Enumeration District: 1321; FHL microfilm: 2340207

Year: 1940; Census Place: Chicago, Cook, Illinois; Roll: m-t0627-00987; Page: 7A; Enumeration District: 103-2078

National Archives at Washington, DC; Washington, D.C.; Seventeenth Census of the United States, 1950; Year: 1950; Census Place: Chicago, Cook, Illinois; Roll: 2954; Page: 2; Enumeration District: 103-3110

Maps
Sanborn Map Chicago Volume 10, sheet 43 for 1921
Sanborn Map Chicago Volume 10, sheet 43 for 1921 revised to 1950

Directories, Reports, Catalogs, Professional Publications
The Economist: A Weekly Financial, Commercial and Real-estate Newspaper. United States: Economist Publishing Company, 1897.

Official Directory. United States: Chicago Masons' and Builders' Association, 1899.

Annual Report of the Chicago Civil Service Commission. United States: Chicago Civil Service Commission., 1901 & 1902.

Who's who in America. United States: A.N. Marquis, 1903.

The Lakeside Annual Directory of the City of Chicago. United States: Williams, Donnelley & Company, 1912.

Radford's stores and flat buildings, Radford Architectural Company, 1913.

The Construction News. United States: Construction News Company, 1913.

Directory and Register of Women's Clubs: City of Chicago and Vicinity, 1914

Board of Ill. Federation of Women's Clubs. United States: Linden Brothers & Harry H. De Clerque, 1917.

Architect and Engineer. United States: Architect and engineer, 1929.
California State Library; Sacramento, California; Biographical Files

The Chicago greystone in historic North Lawndale, City Design Center, University of Illinois at Chicago, 2006.

Ephemera & Photographs
Streets -- Mozart Street -- Illinois -- Chicago [graphic]. Physical Description: 1 folder of photographic prints, Image file, Topic S, Chicago History Museum Abakanowicz Research Center

Turn of the Century photographs of Logan Square greystones, Copyright Holder
Logan Square Preservation Archive.

Souvenir Program of the Logan Square Festival & Circus, 1931, Logan Square Preservation Archive.

Ancestry Public Trees, Falkenberg_Susan

Articles

“McGaffey - Gordon Marriage Notice.” Boston Evening Transcript, Boston, Massachusetts, Sat, Aug 28, 1886

“Wyatt Gordon McGaffey Obituary.” The Inter Ocean, Chicago, Illinois, Mon, May 26, 1890

“Edith McGaffey Obituary.” Chicago Tribune, Chicago, Illinois, Sat, Nov 28, 1891

Public Notice of Lizzie J McGaffey. The Daily Item, Lynn, Massachusetts, Sat, Nov 9, 1895

“Charles Labinski in Trouble.” The Chicago Chronicle, Chicago, Illinois, Tue, Apr 21, 1896

“Building Permits.” The Chicago Chronicle, Chicago, Illinois, Fri, Aug 6, 1897

McGaffey- Rafalsky Wedding Notice. The Inter Ocean, Chicago, Illinois, Sun, Oct 16, 1898

Roeder to Roeder property transfer notice. Chicago Tribune, Chicago, Illinois, Sat, Dec 9, 1899

“Untried Men are Named By Mayor.” The Inter Ocean, Chicago, Illinois, Tue, May 14, 1901

Ernest McGaffey’s Beautiful Young Wife.” The Kalamazoo Gazette, Kalamazoo, Michigan, Sat, May 25, 1901

“Ernest McGaffey, the Chicago Poet.” Minneapolis Daily Times, Minneapolis, Minnesota, Sun, Jun 23, 1901

“Current Literature Ernest McGaffey’s Rosary of Songs to Womanhood’s Honor.” The Inter Ocean
Chicago, Illinois, Mon, Jul 1, 1901

“Situation Wanted.” Chicago Tribune, Chicago, Illinois, Fri, Jan 16, 1903

“McGaffey Now Wishes Muse Had Been Dumb.” The Indianapolis News, Indianapolis, Indiana, Mon, Nov 9, 1903

“Furnishings of the Mayor’s Office.” Chicago Tribune, Chicago, Illinois, Wed, Dec 9, 1903

“Ernest McGaffey Has Pneumonia.” Chicago Tribune, Chicago, Illinois, Sat, Feb 27, 1904

“Portland Citizens Help Fight Great White Plague.” The Oregon Daily Journal, Portland, Oregon, Sun, Mar 28, 1909

“For Sale - A Ready Made House Never Fits Your Needs.” Chicago Tribune, Chicago, Illinois, Thu, Apr 7, 1910

“For Sale at great Sacrifice.” Chicago Tribune, Chicago, Illinois, Wed, May 18, 1910

“New Incorporations (Abbey Brick Co).” Chicago Tribune, Chicago, Illinois, Fri, Jan 27, 1911

“Fruits of Executive Folly.” Pasadena Star-News, Pasadena, California · Saturday, September 07, 1912

“Classifieds - Mah. Piano and Bench.” Chicago Tribune, Chicago, Illinois, Tue, Sep 7, 1915

“For Sale Furniture of a 7 Room House.” Chicago Tribune, Chicago, Illinois, Tue, Nov 2, 1915

“To Rent - 2744 N Mozart St.” Chicago Tribune, Chicago, Illinois, Sat, Apr 20, 1918

“City of Chicago Refused a Loan.” The Western Sentinel, Winston-Salem, North Carolina, Fri, Jun 18, 1920

“City’s Building for Year will Break Records.” Chicago Tribune, Chicago, Illinois, Tue, Dec 2, 1919

Wilhelmina Adams Obituary, Chicago Tribune, Chicago, Illinois, Sun, Mar 23, 1947

“Edward H. Nordlie Obituary.” Chicago Tribune, Chicago, Illinois, Thu, Mar 26, 1953

“Logan Sq Greystone / Antique Collector.” Chicago Tribune, Chicago, Illinois, Sun, Nov 20, 1983

Websites

Theodore Roosevelt Center at Dickinson State University

TheIroquistheater.com

Law Lit Net, Strangers to Us All, Ernest McGaffey

3936 S King Dr (3936 Grand Blvd / 3936 South Parkway)3936 South King Drive, the grand Victorian greystone that was for a...
12/20/2024

3936 S King Dr (3936 Grand Blvd / 3936 South Parkway)

3936 South King Drive, the grand Victorian greystone that was for a brief time the childhood home of Chicago mayor Harold Washington, is on the market and it is absolutely stunning in all of its tumbledown glory.

The stately Bronzeville mansion was designed in 1894 for Louis and Minnie Becker and their eight-year-old daughter Hortense by architects Schlacks & Ottenheimer, both formerly of Adler & Sullivan. The construction cost $15k, around $551k in today’s money, which is not too far off from the current asking price. At the time, King Drive was known as Grand Boulevard, “a tree-line thoroughfare” developed by Chicago’s South Parks Commission in the 1870s that became a “popular site for wealthy Chicagoans to build ornate and luxurious mansions.”

3936 is an early Romanesque Revival example of one of Chicago’s 30,000 greystones, fashioned from Bedford limestone mined in Indiana. It is a graceful take on the medieval castle with a towering turret set atop a bank of bay windows, a petite battlement, and decorative finials. The regal stone archway is a fitting entry, leading into the grand welcome hall with its original tile floor, massive built-in hall tree, and sweeping staircase with its intricately carved newel posts and wooden finial urn. When you step in through the front door, the weight and scale of the home is striking. It feels so solid, even with much of it crumbling.

I was fortunate to be given a tour by the seller’s passionate and knowledgeable agent, Paulette Edwards. Inside, 3936 has it all: towering ceilings, so much marvelous unpainted woodwork (“all of it,” Edwards notes), so many majolica tile fireplaces (and one onyx marble one), massive pocket doors, intricate beaded moulding, a truly impressive number of built-ins, leaded glass bookcases, original hardware on all the doors, solid wood transoms, fantastic beadboard wainscotting on the servants staircase, a gorgeous dumbwaiter system, inlaid wooden floors, a lyrical mural gracing the walls of the dining room, circular rooms on the south elevation, and the list just goes on and on and on. The house has more than 5,000 square feet spread over three floors and a basement with 10-foot ceilings. It has seven bedrooms and five bathrooms. Edwards discovered a hidden safe behind a built-in secretary that she had never seen before as she was showing me the house. What a magical place.

Sadly (gut wrenchingly even, in the circular rooms) the original windows have been replaced. But save that, it is truly unbelievable that so much original detail has survived the past 130 years. Edwards attributes this to the fact that the property has been in the hands of the same family for the past 50 or so years.

It is easy to imagine this captivating place as it was when Louis and Minnie crossed the threshold in 1894, and it is still indescribably splendid today though Edwards notes “a complete rehab” is needed. Crain's Chicago reports that an estimated $300k would be needed to update the property.

Minnie Loeb Becker was born in Tennessee. She was the oldest of eight kids. Her family moved to Chicago in 1873 when she was eight. Louis was born in Bavaria, emigrating to Indiana with his family when he was just two. Louis’ father was a commission merchant. Minnie’s father was a German immigrant who started a fire insurance agency, eventually forming Adolph Loeb, Son & Co. with his son Leo. Minnie and Louis were married in Chicago in 1886 when she was 20 and he was 32. Two years before the construction of 3936, Adolph Loeb admitted his son-in-law Louis Becker to his practice. Becker left the agency in 1898, selling his interest to Minnie’s cousin James, and formed the Cash Buyers’ Union, a cooperative society that sold household goods on the south side.

Hortense attended the Kenwood Institute for Young Ladies, which was founded in 1888 as a prestigious school for daughters of prominent south side families. In the Inter Ocean’s coverage of her graduating class exercises, a reporter wrote, “The brides are having to step aside for the sweet girl graduate… Kenwood Institute has the most attractive line of graduates, and of programs too. All the fancy work about diplomas and that sort will come off next week…. But the unadulterated joy of really showing what a sweet girl graduate can do when she is merry and pretty and blithe will be shown tomorrow afternoon…when “The Merry Shepherdess,” a pastoral written in honor of the girls' school, will be presented.”

A less patronizing report of the performance was published two days later under the headline, “Kenwood Pupils in Rolls of Actresses: Class Day Exercises Observed in a Decidedly Novel and Interesting Manner – Excellent Program.” Noted were that the students who had written the program were members of the Theta Society - “a society of the highest scholarship” and that “very clever acting was displayed.” Hortense played the role of Daphne in the play and went on to graduate from the University of Chicago in 1908.

Louis, Minnie, and Hortense stayed in their new home for only three years before selling it to Kate and Peter Schackman and moving into an apartment on Michigan Ave. in 1899.

One year later the census shows Peter Schackman, 42, and Catherine Ruffling Schackman, 40, living in the house with their three children Harry, 12, Carrie, 9, and George, 6; Peter’s mother Lizzie, 67; and a servant, Frieda Swanson, 19, who had just arrived from Sweden.

While Peter’s occupation is illegible in the census, newspaper articles from the time indicate he was in real estate. He was a member of the Chicago Real Estate Board, which I mention in large part to include a description of the centerpieces from the board’s sixth annual banquet held in 1889 at which Peter was in attendance along with other “people who have brought Chicago from ruins and made of it the foremost city of the continent.” In the center of each banquet table “on a bed of moss, rested a miniature cottage with bowed roof and glass windows. Within each structure a candle was burning… The menus too were a novelty, each consisted of a little cardboard cottage, resting on a cardboard base…The menu was printed on the roof - which was hinged at one of the eaves - bearing the inscription “For toasts, inquire within.” Please see the photos for illustrations of this A-plus event decor.

On November 25, 1900, Peter listed a classified ad selling “my blooded horse, Studebaker trap, and carriage, good as new” for $400, taking quite a loss from the original price paid of $1600 just a “short time ago.”

In March 1901, Schackman advertised “a suburb within the city” of “elegantly trimmed houses” located at Lake and 52nd street to be sold under the umbrella of the Union Security Company. Schackman also had connections to the Cash Buyers Union and was at one point their president. (Related to that endeavor he and Catherine were subject to several lawsuits after leaving the house.)

In January of 1903, the Inter Ocean reported that Peter and a co-partner acting as brokers as the Union Security Company were being sued by the Baker’s Oil Company for retaining “an unreasonable fee” (more than half of the reported $50k profit made) for services rendered. A little less than two weeks later, Peter retired from the company.

And then, once again just three years after moving in, in February 1903, the Schackmans sold the house. They moved to San Francisco and then to Petaluma, California, leaving the city and their business dealings to buy a ranch and become poultry farmers. Sadly, Catherine died in 1916 at just 55 years old. She had been ill for some time and underwent an operation, but survived the surgery by only hours. Her obituaries noted that she “enjoyed the esteem and friendship of a wide circle…. and was a kind hearted woman who was always devoted to her family.” In December of 1918, Peter remarried Florence Moore in San Francisco. She had been for years a head cashier in one of his businesses in Chicago. In March of 1920, Peter filed for divorce citing desertion.

Back at 3936 in 1903, James and Nellie Witherell had paid the Schackmans $26k, about $932k in today's money, giving a vacant lot further north on Grand in partial payment.

The Witherells came to Chicago from St. Joseph, Michigan, where James had been a postmaster, a stationer, and a hardware dealer. In 1886, James was listed as one of three incorporators of The Chicago Fire Proofing Company in the Chicago Tribune. James’ brother William moved in with them as well, but died just six months later. Both his death and his funeral took place in the house.

In June of 1904, someone living in the house, perhaps Nellie, lost a pearl marquise ring in the ladies bathroom of the Chicago Rock Island and Pacific Railway 31st Street station and advertised a reward for its safe return.

The Witherells employed a live-in chef, Frederick Messer, from at least 1906 to 1911. Messer was born in 1871 in Indiana and had previously worked as a live-in servant for the family of John Reid (a merchant tailor) at 5644 Indiana Ave., about two and half miles directly south of 3936. Around the same time, Nellie's brother Charles R. Swartout was also living with them in the house. He was a junior clerk for Marshall Field & Co, and he would go on to become “one of Chicago’s pioneer salesmen,” staying with the company until his retirement in 1918.

The Witherells were still living at the house at the time of the 1910 census, but regrettably 3936 is missing from the census data. While Nellie was living at the house until at least 1911, James Witherell passed away in the house on February 14, 1910, Valentines Day.

By 1914, Ernest Valentine Johnson, coincidentally born on Valentine’s Day in 1859, was living at 3936. Ernest was the general manager of The Fireproof Construction Company. Ernest’s father George Hardesty Johnson was an accomplished architect and engineer who spearheaded innovations in fireproofing.

Ernest bought the house with his second wife Estelle. This was a second marriage for Estelle, as well. She had filed for divorce from her first husband James O. Wakefield, a “traveling man,” for desertion in 1896. Ernest had filed for divorce in 1893 from his first wife, Eva L. Brooks, described in their 1888 wedding announcement as “a lady much admired in society,” charging cruelty and alleging that “at one time with the help of their servants…she horsewhipped him” and that she had once “called at his office in the Hartford Building and gave him a black eye.” In response, Eva denied every allegation and alleged that Ernest was “a habitual drunkard” who “frequently remained away from home for ten days or more” always returning “in a drunken, filthy, and besotted condition, many times bearing the marks of bruises and personal violence” and often embarrassing her in front of guests as she entertained.

In any case, Ernest and Estelle seem to have had a calmer go of it than Ernest and Eva. According to the census, Ernest was a lodger in Estelle’s house at 2510 Prairie Ave. in 1900. Estelle is listed as head of house, and a proprietor, possibly of a confection and spice shop though the handwriting is not clear enough to be sure. Four years later, Ernest and Estelle were married and moved to 422 42nd street with three servants: M.A. and Mary J. Carpenter who were listed as janitor and dressmaker respectively, and Nelson Dagmar, a cook.

Their 1914 move to 3936, one would think, though there is no census to confirm it, would have taken place with several servants in tow.

I have to take a moment for a brief detour to encourage you to read a fascinating story I came across regarding Ernest Valentine Johnson’s parents. While looking for information on Ernest’s wives, I was fortunate to intersect with Ann Smith, a researcher for the Cotesbach Archive/Cotesbach Educational Trust in Leicestershire, UK. Inspired to unravel the circumstances behind a mysterious letter found in their archives, Ann uncovered a plot “truly worthy of a Victorian novel.” I fervently beseech you to check out the scan of the letter in the photos of this post and then visit Ann’s article to read about the “The Strange Story of the Architect’s Wife” and what happened to Ernest Valentine Johnson’s mother in the wake of her mental illness.

Ernest and Estelle, if the papers are any indication, were very social and they had a lot of fun while living in this house. In 1912, the couple sailed to London for a two month vacation. In 1915, Estelle was patroness to the violet card party at the Congress Hotel, the Chicago Examiner noting that “Mrs. E. Valentine Johnson worked untiringly for the affair.” In 1916, Estelle went to New Orleans for Mardi Gras. In 1917, the Johnsons hosted a fundraising “Card Party to Aid Home of Cripples” at the house.

The 1920 census shows Ernest and Estelle still in the home, residing with two renters, 33-year-old Mary E. Ecklin and her husband 31-year-old Elmer W., who was a Stationary Engineer at a manufacturing company.

In the Spring of 1921, Estelle passed away and her funeral was held in the home. Ernest remained at the house at least through 1922.

Between 1916 and 1920 there was an influx of more than 50,000 African-Americans moving to Chicago from the south. Many of them settled in the area around Grand Avenue and the area became more diverse. Chicago historian Geoffrey Baer notes that the boulevard was “lined with black owned-and-operated businesses and social organizations. Numerous black artists, musicians, writers, and intellectuals took up residence in the area, creating a metropolis for African-American culture and history.”

In 1926, Grand Boulevard was renamed South Parkway.

In 1928, according to his biographer, a young Harold Washington moved into the house with his father and brother. In his authorized biography of Mayor Washington, ‘Harold, the People’s Mayor: A Biography of Chicago’s First Black Mayor,” Dempsey Travis recounts that Roy Washington and his “two young sons moved into a three-story white stone Victorian mansion owned by his friend Virginia Davis, a widow with a young daughter named Gwendolyn.”

Travis goes on to write that 3936 was “directly across the street from the renowned Grand Terrace nightclub” and that “young Harold spent many evenings looking out of his second-floor bedroom window at white women draped in mink coats … and at white men in tuxedos, tails and top hats.”

The 1930 census shows that the owner of 3936 South Parkway at that time was Elizabeth P. Sutton, a single mother living in the mansion with her children, her mother, her brother, and nine additional boarders.

While her name is not the Virginia Davis mentioned in Travis’ book, Elizabeth did have a four year old daughter, Egypt Davis, listed in the census. In subsequent censuses, as well as in later family obituaries, Egypt Davis is called by the name Gwendolyn. Elizabeth’s son Tillman Davis, who was 23 at the time, was also living in the house, but listed as a boarder. The Washingtons are not listed among the occupants in the census data, which is not to say they weren’t living there. Edwards pointed out that in this era the mansion was rented out as an SRO and that turnover would have been frequent.

The Grand Terrace Ballroom mentioned in Travis’ biography is not to be confused with the “new” Grand Terrace located at 315 East 35th Street, which was several blocks north and formerly known as The Sunset Cafe.

The original Grand Terrace Ballroom and Grand Terrace Cafe were located in the Hotel Trenier at 3955 South Parkway, right across the boulevard and in full view of young Harold Washington’s second floor bedroom. The hotel was a Green Book historical site that opened in 1916. Newspaper articles from 1937 report the opening of a new movie theater on site of the former Grand Terrace Cafe, but the Sanborn fire insurance map from 1925 shows a 910-seat motion picture theater already on site, so I am not sure if the Grand Terrace had a movie screen or if the ballroom was elsewhere in the building. I do know that the storefront of the cafe was on the south corner of the building, at 40th and South Parkway and that its facade, as well as the hotel building still exist as apartments and storefronts.

It has been wondered if the large vacant lot currently on King Dr. just south of Oakwood was the former site of the Grand Terrace, but Sanborn maps show that as early as 1895 and as recently as 1925 the lot housed five residential buildings. By 1950, the corner house had been replaced by a gas station and four residences remained. Today all of that has been razed.

Travis reports that the Washington family stayed at 3936 until the winter of 1933 when they moved into an apartment at 4507 S. Vincennes.

Elizabeth continued to run 3936 as a boarding house at least through 1940, when the census shows her also working as a registered nurse at a hospital. Still living in the house were Gwendolyn, by then 14, and Tillman, 32, who was working in furniture repair. An additional 13 boarders were also living in the mansion.

Gwen, the little girl remembered fondly by Harold Washington, went on to become an actress, helping to establish the Chicago Negro Art Theater and becoming an “integral member of the Village Players of Oak Park. She had guest roles on several television shows including “L.A. Law,” “Doogie Howser, M.D.,” and “The Golden Girls.” She was described by her agent as having “the sweetest soul in the world.” Harold Washington is remembered not only as Chicago’s first black mayor, but as “ one of the nation’s most historic and significant municipal leaders,” an intellectual with an unparalleled gift for connecting with others.

In the 1930s, Baer notes that as a result of the Depression, “banks along the boulevard closed… creating a sense of frustration and later, panic, among residents. The magnificent boulevard quickly deteriorated.” Bronzeville entered a period of economic decline that would last decades.

By the time of the 1950 census, the Sutton/Davis family had moved out of the house, and Herman and Mollie Grice had taken over as heads. Sixty-five year old Herman worked as a porter. The Grice’s 35-year-old daughter Clion, who worked as a decorator and her husband George Harnett, listed as unemployed, also lived at the house. An additional seven boarders were also listed: Herschel Maddox, 34, a bus boy; Regnals Byers, 24, a college student; Oscar White, 42, a mechanic; Mary White, 41, a hotel maid; Melvie Smith, 25, and Irene Hawkins, 40, whose occupations were not listed, and James Williams, 23, a recreation instructor.

In 1958, 3936 resident Willie Williams, 16, escaped a juvenile home on Ogden Ave after being arrested for robbing the Maple Food Mart at 52 W Maple St. with 17-year-old James Randle. According to the Chicago Tribune the two “slugged the guard” and then “took his keys, unlocked the dormitory door, and fled through the Ogden avenue entrance.” Later the two teens were identified by Virginia Heston as the gunman who robbed her apartment at 14 W. Elm St. ten days earlier.

In 1965, a Brinks messenger was robbed. Of the $34,490 taken, $1,100 was found behind a kitchen cabinet in 3936 resident Oscar De-Glasco’s kitchen, found by police pursuing him with suspicions he was one of three bandits to have perpetrated the crime. Ultimately, “more than $20k was recovered after they [the bandits] went on a spending spree on the south side… giving away more than $13,300 of the loot to friends, creditors, and ‘just about anyone who stopped them’ on the street, police said.”

On July 31, 1968, South Parkway was renamed King Drive in honor of civil rights leader Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. just three months after his assassination. Chicago was the first city in the world to do so.

In April of 1977 Molly Grice passed away.

From 1979-2020, public records show that Jeffrey Marx, an architect, lived in the house. When I visited it, there were still several large architecture books on the coffee table. Around the same time, public records show David Fowler in residence.

On October 6, 2020 the house was listed for sale for $350k. The listing was removed 13 days later.

In 2020 the deed passed to Penny Babb-Fowler.

It is currently unoccupied and being offered for sale by the Marx Fowler Trust with an asking price of $685,000.


___________________________________________________

SOURCES

Maps

Sanborn Map Company, "Insurance maps of Chicago, Illinois. Volume 14," 1895, Sanborn Fire Insurance Maps, Map Library, University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign Library, https://digital.library.illinois.edu/items/b57efdf0-c451-0133-1d17-0050569601ca-f.

Sanborn Map Company, "Insurance maps of Chicago, Illinois. Volume 14," 1925, Sanborn Fire Insurance Maps, Fire Insurance Maps online, https://fims-historicalinfo-com.chipublib.idm.oclc.org/FIMS.aspx.

Sanborn Map Company, "Insurance maps of Chicago, Illinois. Volume 14," 1925; Revised to September 1950, Sanborn Fire Insurance Maps, Fire Insurance Maps online, https://fims-historicalinfo-com.chipublib.idm.oclc.org/FIMS.aspx.

Books

McAlester, Virginia, et al. A Field Guide to American Houses: The Definitive Guide to Identifying and Understanding America’s Domestic Architecture. Alfred A. Knopf, 2021.

Travis, Dempsey. Harold, the People’s Mayor: The Biography of Harold Washington. Agate Bolden, 2017.

Web Articles

“Chicago Tours with Geoffrey Baer: Biking the Boulevards.” WTTW. Accessed December 13, 2024. https://interactive.wttw.com/a/biking-the-boulevards-mlk-dr.

Rodkin, Dennis. “Former Bronzeville home of mayor Harold Washington for Sale.” Crain’s Chicago Business. Accessed December 13, 2024. https://www.chicagobusiness.com/residential-real-estate/former-bronzeville-home-mayor-harold-washington-sale.

Smith, Ann. “The Strange Story of the Architect’s Wife.” Cotesbach Archive/Cotesbach Educational Trust,. Accessed December 13, 2024. https://www.cotesbacheducationaltrust.org.uk/archive-highlights.

Databases

Ancestry.com. Cook County, Illinois, U.S., Marriages Index, 1871-1920 [database on-line]. Provo, UT, USA: Ancestry.com Operations, Inc., 2011.

Ancestry.com. U.S., City Directories, 1822-1995 [database on-line]. Lehi, UT, USA: Ancestry.com Operations, Inc., 2011.

Year: 1900; Census Place: Chicago Ward 32, Cook, Illinois; Roll: 285; Page: 5; Enumeration District: 0995

The Lakeside Annual Directory of the City of Chicago. United States: Chicago Directory Company, 1906.

The Lakeside Annual Directory of the City of Chicago. United States: Chicago Directory Company, 1911.

Year: 1920; Census Place: Chicago Ward 3, Cook (Chicago), Illinois; Roll: T625_312; Page: 1A; Enumeration District: 123

Year: 1930; Census Place: Chicago, Cook, Illinois; Page: 1A; Enumeration District: 0098; FHL microfilm: 2340154

Year: 1940; Census Place: Chicago, Cook, Illinois; Roll: m-t0627-00924; Page: 1A; Enumeration District: 103-113

National Archives at Washington, DC; Washington, D.C.; Seventeenth Census of the United States, 1950; Year: 1950; Census Place: Chicago, Cook, Illinois; Roll: 3930; Page: 25; Enumeration District: 103-286

"U.S., School Yearbooks, 1880-2012"; School Name: University of Chicago; Year: 1908

Newspaper Articles

“Building Permits,” Chicago Tribune, Fri, Sep 14, 1894

“From the State Capitol,” Chicago Tribune, Thu, Feb 25, 1886

“Matrimonial,” The Inter Ocean, Thu, Jul 19, 1888 ·

“Chicago Business Men,” Chicago Eagle, Sat, Jan 18, 1890

“Court Notes,” The Inter Ocean, Sat, Dec 02, 1893

“Mrs. Johnson’s Side,” The Inter Ocean, Tue, Dec 05, 1893

“Superior and Circuit Court,” The Chicago Chronicle, Sat, May 23, 1896 ·Page 11

“Chicago Real Estate,” The Inter Ocean, Sun, Mar 12, 1899

“For Sale - Real Estate,” The Inter Ocean Chicago, Illinois · Sunday, March 31, 1901

“Real Estate Transfers,” Chicago, Illinois, Tue, Jan 27, 1903 · Page 11

“For Sale,” Chicago Tribune, Sun, Nov 25, 1900

“Receiver for Agency Named,” The Inter Ocean, Chicago, Illinois · Sunday, January 04, 1903

“Official Death Record,” Chicago Tribune, Tue, Aug 25, 1903

“The Whirl of Society,” The Inter Ocean, Fri, Jun 10, 1904

“Kenwood Pupils in Roles of Actresses,” The Inter Ocean, Sun, Jun 12, 1904.

“Lost and Found,” Chicago Tribune, Tue, Jun 14, 1904

“In the Society World,” Chicago Tribune, Mon, Nov 28, 1904

“Kenwood Institute,” Chicago Tribune, Sun, Aug 23, 1908

“Obituary James N Wetherell,” Chicago Tribune, Tue, Feb 15, 1910

“Our Birthdays,” The Inter Ocean, Sat, Feb 14, 1914

“Mrs Schackman Answers Last Call,” Petaluma Daily Morning Courier, Wed, Mar 29, 1916

“Death Ends a Noble LIfe,” Petaluma Argus-Courier, Wed, Mar 29, 1916

“Chicago Society,” Chicago Tribune, Sun, Apr 09, 1916

“Hotel Trenier Cor Grand and Oakwoos-bd,” Chicago Tribune, Sun, Jul 9, 1916.

“New Suits, Probate Filings,” The Recorder, Tue, Mar 16, 1920

“Estelle Johnson Obituary,” Chicago Tribune, Wed, Jun 01, 1921

“Guard Slugged as Three Flee Juvenile Home,” Chicago Tribune, Tue, Apr 22, 1958

“More Brink’s Loot Found, 3D Person Sought,” Chicago Tribune, Sun, Aug 22, 1965

“Gwen Davis Golab, 73,” Chicago Tribune, Tue, Apr 06, 1999

“Gwen Golab Obituary,” Chicago Tribune, Mon, Mar 29, 1999

Paulette Edwards, Real Estate Broker/Coldwell Banker Realty
Preservation Chicago
Crain's Chicago Business

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