09/01/2026
"Dowries From Kutch: A Women's Folk Art Tradition in India" by Vickie C. Elson. Catalog from a 1979 exhibition at the Frederick S. Wight Art Gallery, UCLA.
The bridal traditions of the Rabari, a semi-nomadic herding culture spread across northwest India, are renowned for their intricacy and beauty. Stitched in electric shades, the embroidery for both wedding ceremonies and dowries are especially ornate in a culture where embroidery is already of great importance. Using appliqué, chain stitching, mirrorwork, and more, it might take a young woman years to accomplish.
When recurring droughts and inflation began to destabilize traditional income, Rabari women began joining the workforce. For some, this meant producing commercial embroidery—for most, however, agricultural labor was more profitable and efficient. The new dual-income arrangement left women with little time to practice traditional embroidery for their families, homes, and dowries. For the Dhebaria, one of many communities within the Rabari, this led women to embroider dowry bags largely by machine and use ready-made trims and appliqué, stitching their dowries between work shifts and more pressing chores. The customary heavy adornment became a growing burden to many. Today, mothers and grandmothers have begun passing their own dowry pieces down to younger generations, ensuring they will have beautiful pieces without the added strain of embroidering them.
Absent from this book is a section on dowry bags. On view in our upcoming exhibition (and the last 2 images) is a large and elaborately decorated 20th century Rabari dowry bag. This kothalo would have been used to transport non-textile dowry items, like cooking implements, into the bride's new home. "Sh**ha, Kantha, and Kachchh: Domestic Embroidery in the TATTER Collection" opens to the public September 8th. Visit tatter.org to plan your visit!
Kothalo dowry bag, India, Gujarat, Kachchh, 20th century. Rabari community. Cotton embroidery, ric-rac on cotton background. TATTER Textile Collection, 2024.9.5.