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02/09/2022
07/08/2022

How to construct a poultry house:

Commercial chicken farming requires a high-level of expertise, understanding and commitment to be successful.

Whilst it’s important to emphasize the need for excellent flock management at all times, something that comes with experience and aptitude, adopting the correct housing techniques and equipment will set a firm foundation for success of your poultry venture.

The following is a guiding checklist for poultry house construction:

"A poultry house should provide the birds with a comfortable environment and protect them from the extremities of the prevailing weather (rain, wind and sunshine).

"It should have adequate space for the flock to be kept in the house. The ideal stocking density is:

1. Layers: one square metre for 6 birds.

2. Broilers: One square metre for 11 birds.

"It should be open-sided to allow natural ventilation with an east-west orientation to minimise the amount of sunlight entering the house directly. Its not good for sun rays to strike directly into the poultry house.

"It should be rectangular in shape and have a wall not higher than three feet on the longer side. The widith should be at least 7-9 metres, but for the length you are only limited by your land. Avoid building poultry houses in a square form.

"The wall can be made from stones, iron sheets, timber, silver boards or bricks

"The rest of the side of the wall should have a chicken wire mesh. The wire mesh on the sides of the house should be of a small gauge to prevent entry of wild birds, dogs and rodents. This normal chicken mesh is not long lasting.....within a few months it rusts and gets off the house. its better to use a plastic quoted mesh.

"The roof of the house should have a reflecting surface and pitched with overlaps to ensure that the house is comfortable and well ventilated. There should be enough gap between the birds and the roof to avoid heat stress. The pin of the house should be 8 metres from the ground, and the sides should be 5 metres.

"Concrete floors are the best finishing as they are easier to clean and disinfect. Do not put "nil" after putting concrete on the floor.

"There should be a foot-bath at the entrance of the house for those entering the poultry house to disinfect their foot wear. You know farm boys have a tendency of jumping the foot bath, but if it is wide enough they cannot jump it.

"To reduce the risk of rodents gaining entrance into the poultry house, clear all the vegetation in a radius of 3-5 metres around the pen.

"The feed store should also be separate from the house to reduce risk of attracting rodents.

"It should be constructed in isolated areas to minimise the risk of contamination.

"your poultry house plan must have a tank raised inside the poultry house. Exposing water to sunshine in bad, as it gets warm and birds may reject it, or may facilitate heat stress during the dry seasons.

"The house should be fenced to exclude stray animals and visitors.

"The doors should always be locked.

"On poultry farms, an all-in all-out system is the best management practice as it prevents the build up of disease causing organisms and disease outbreaks. Its always good to have one age group in each house, but not putting different ages in one house!

In case where farmers want to keep flocks of different ages, then each flock must be housed in its own.

Ventilation:

Ventilation is the circulation of fresh air through the flock house and exhaustion of stale air out of the flock units and its achieved by air passing from one side of the house and exhausting through the opposite side.

Ventilation of poultry houses serves several functions including:

1.Removing excess heat and moisture.

2.Providing oxygen while removing harmful gases.

3.Reducing dust hence improving the air quality.

You must always allow optimal ventilation to avoid chicks getting suffocated.

Keep following Dr Fami

Irrigation farming, especially drip system though expensive is the way to go!
13/07/2022

Irrigation farming, especially drip system though expensive is the way to go!

How to Install a Drip Irrigation System

Step 1: Connect Tubing to Water Source

Use an outdoor faucet or water valve to connect the water source to the main water line tubing. Connect the two with a backflow preventer valve to stop contaminated water from leaking back into the initial water source.

Note: In nearly all cases, an anti-siphon valve (a combination valve and backflow preventer) is recommended for most home irrigation systems. However, there are strict local codes to follow when using these valves. Check your local code for installation guidelines before you begin.

Step 2: Distribute Tubing Line and Connect Emitters

Once the water source is connected to the main water distribution line, it is time to lay the tubing in accordance with your garden layout.

Roll the tubing out around the garden beds, laying the line flush but not too taut. Once the tubing is in place, use a punch tool to make a hole in the tubing line wherever an emitter goes. In most cases, position your emitters so they are close to the root zone of each plant. To punch the holes, use boiling water or a hair dryer to heat the tube, which makes it more pliable.

Once you have the tubing laid out and your emitter holes punched, secure the tubing into the ground with tubing stakes (which should be the same size or just slightly larger than the tubing circumference).

Step 3: Test the System

Before you turn on the system and bask in the glory of all your hard work, you may want to make some adjustments. Before closing the tubing with clamps, leave all of the tube ends open to test the system. Turn on the water and allow it to run freely for a few minutes to flush out any dirt or debris. Once you see the system runs properly, close the tubing with an end cap

13/07/2022

How to Install a Drip Irrigation System

Step 1: Connect Tubing to Water Source

Use an outdoor faucet or water valve to connect the water source to the main water line tubing. Connect the two with a backflow preventer valve to stop contaminated water from leaking back into the initial water source.

Note: In nearly all cases, an anti-siphon valve (a combination valve and backflow preventer) is recommended for most home irrigation systems. However, there are strict local codes to follow when using these valves. Check your local code for installation guidelines before you begin.

Step 2: Distribute Tubing Line and Connect Emitters

Once the water source is connected to the main water distribution line, it is time to lay the tubing in accordance with your garden layout.

Roll the tubing out around the garden beds, laying the line flush but not too taut. Once the tubing is in place, use a punch tool to make a hole in the tubing line wherever an emitter goes. In most cases, position your emitters so they are close to the root zone of each plant. To punch the holes, use boiling water or a hair dryer to heat the tube, which makes it more pliable.

Once you have the tubing laid out and your emitter holes punched, secure the tubing into the ground with tubing stakes (which should be the same size or just slightly larger than the tubing circumference).

Step 3: Test the System

Before you turn on the system and bask in the glory of all your hard work, you may want to make some adjustments. Before closing the tubing with clamps, leave all of the tube ends open to test the system. Turn on the water and allow it to run freely for a few minutes to flush out any dirt or debris. Once you see the system runs properly, close the tubing with an end cap

27/06/2022

Tomato Varieties and their yields

There are categories of tomato varieties, namely determinate and indeterminate.

Determinate tomato varieties grow to a standard height of about 1metre. They stop growing when fruit starts forming on the top bud. The fruit from the plant ripens at approximately the same period (usually 7-14days). They stand on their own hence do not require staking for support.
Indeterminate tomatoes continue growing and producing fruits until it withers due to environmental factors such as drought and frost. This variety reaches heights of up to 2metres. Indeterminate will flower, set new fruit and ripen fruit all at the same time throughout the season. They require substantial staking for support.

Some of the common varieties of tomatoes grown in Kenya include;

Rio Grande- This is a determinate variety that does very well in warm climates. It is a very popular tomato with rich deep red and sweet-tasting fruits. Some of the attributes Rio Grande variety holds include;

It can yield up to 18tonnes per acre
The Rio Grande matures in between 75–85 days.
It is tolerant to verticillium and fusarium wilt.

Assila F1- This is a determinate variety that produces red coloured fruits with an oval shape and is known to be sweet. Other characteristics attributed to Assila F1 include;

Assila F1 is an early maturing variety taking 75days to mature after transplanting.
It is tolerant to Tomato Yellow Leaf Curl Virus and nematodes.
This variety can yield up to 23tonnes per acre.
It can be stored well and transported without much damage.

Kilele f1 – This is a determinate variety suitable for growing in the drier or humid regions. Some of its attributes include;

This variety is tolerant to diseases such as Tomato Yellow Leaf Curl Virus, Tomato Mosaic Virus, Verticillium, Fusarium Wilt, and Nematodes.
It matures in 75-85days after transplanting.
Kilele F1 can yield up to 35tonnes per acre.
Its fruit is firm and elongated. The fruit has a 21day shelf life, thereby giving you adequate time to seek its market.

Cal j – this is a determinate variety that is open-pollinated. It produces red, blocky shaped fruits. Some of the other attributes of this variety include;

It matures in about 75–85 days after transplanting.
This variety has the potential to yield up to 12tonnes per acre
Cal J is also known for its easy transportability to the market

Anna F1- Anna F1 falls in the category of indeterminate. It does well in both greenhouses and the open field. Some outstanding attributes for this variety include;

This variety matures in 75days.
Anna F1 has a yield of about 74tonnes per acre. It can yield up to 35kgs of tomatoes per plant
Anna f1's fruit is deep red, firm, and has an oval shape.
This variety has a high resistance to Alternaria stem canker, Verticillium, Fusarium wilt as well as nematodes.

Prostar F1 – Prostar F1 is a hybrid indeterminate variety that does well in warm climates. It can be grown both outdoors or in a greenhouse. Some of its attributes include;

It takes between 80-85days to mature.
It can yield up to 180tonnes per acre.
This variety is tolerant to Leaf Curl Virus and Bacterial Wilt.
It has a long harvesting period and excellent keeping quality.

The choice of the variety that you should plant should be based on several factors that include;

The variety's disease resistance capability. Some varieties are resistant to diseases such as fusarium wilt and nematodes.
Whether the variety is hybrid or the open-pollinated one. Hybrid varieties give higher yields but are costly in terms of the cost of seeds.
Depending on your farm, you should also consider whether the variety is determinate, indeterminate, or semi-determinate. Indeterminate varieties will raise your costs of materials and labour as you will be required to build the supports for the plants.
Also, the fruit type in terms of shape, size, and colour. The fruit type is determined by market needs, whether it is processing or market buyers.

21/07/2019

Bokkos- the food basket of plateau state and indeed Nigeria!

05/04/2019

The state University is located at Bokkos. Bokkos LGA is No1 producer of Irish Potatoes in Nigeria.. It is blessed with a good climatic weather conditions for agriculture to thrive!

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